Lumière

Goutte

A single stone in a rub-over setting, hung so it turns as it moves.

  • ReferenceSR-1310-05
  • Stone1.24 ct round brilliant, E, VS2
  • Carat1.24
  • MetalPlatinum 950
  • CollectionLumière
A brooch lying face up, the pin folded flat beneath it.
Goutte, photographed on the bench under a single north light.
From the ledger

€21,800

Each piece is finished by one setter and leaves with their name on the certificate. Nothing here is made twice — where a design is repeated, the stone is not.

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  • Table58.0%
  • Crown33.4°
  • Pavilion40.4°
  • Facets58

This stone is normally traced live from its own recorded proportions. Your device is being spared the arithmetic — the measured angles are listed alongside.

Cut to 33.4° / 40.4°
The cut

This stone, not a stock one

The gem beside this text is not a photograph and not a video. It is built from the proportions recorded against this piece and traced facet by facet, so the light coming back out of it is the light this geometry actually returns.

Cut is the one variable a photograph cannot show and the one that costs the most. A stone a degree shallow in the pavilion leaks light through its own back and goes dull in the hand, which is exactly the thing a retouched product shot hides.

  • Stone Ø6.98 mm
  • Piece Ø12.80 mm
  • Price€21,800
  • Lead timeFour to nine weeks

Actually this big

Girdle 6.98 mm

The circle is the girdle of the stone at 6.98 mm; the finished piece measures 12.80 mm across. If you have set your screen against a bank card, this is life size. If you have not, it is the browser's guess of 96 pixels to the inch — and it is almost certainly wrong.

The stone is held by a wall of metal turned over the girdle all the way round — a rub-over, the oldest setting there is and the only one with nothing to catch on a collar.

It is cut shallower than the rings: a 40.4° pavilion under a 58% table. A pendant is seen edge-on and in movement far more often than it is seen square, and a shallow stone spreads its return over a wider band of angles. It gives away a little brightness at dead centre to be brighter through the arc where a pendant actually spends its day.

The bail is soldered off-axis by four degrees so the stone faces slightly outward when it hangs against the body rather than lying flat to the chest. Every maison that has made a pendant for a century knows this and almost nobody mentions it.

  • Enquiries[email protected]
  • Telephone+33 1 42 60 00 00
  • ReplyWithin two working days
  • RegardingSR-1310-05
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Ask about this piece

Tell us what you would like to know — the certificate, the provenance of the rough, whether the setting can be sized, or when you could come and hold it. A member of the atelier answers personally.

  • AlongsideLumière
  • Shown atTrue scale

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